A Visitor’s Guide to Lerwick, Shetland

Nestled on the east coast of Shetland, Lerwick is the islands' only town and serves as the centre for daily life, business, and services in the Shetland Islands. With a population of around 7,500, it’s home to much of Shetland’s total population and holds the distinction of being the northernmost major town in the United Kingdom.

Despite its small size, Lerwick is packed with history, character, and things to do, making it an ideal base for exploring the islands. In this guide, we’ll delve into the town’s fascinating history, top attractions, and practical travel tips for  your visit to this unique and welcoming town.

A Town Born From the Sea: The History of Lerwick

The town’s name, Lerwick, is derived from Old Norse, coming from the words Leir (meaning "mud") and Wick (meaning "bay"), reflecting the natural landscape of the area. This Norse connection is not only seen in the name but also in the wider Shetland Islands, which were once part of the Viking-controlled Kingdom of Orkney. The influence of Norse culture and language is still present in the islands today.

The history of Lerwick begins in the early 1600s when it started as an informal market for Dutch herring fleets. At first, the settlement wasn’t officially recognised and was even considered illegal because of its connection to the Dutch fishing industry. In fact, it was demolished twice in the early 1600s by order of the Scalloway court. Despite these challenges, Lerwick slowly grew over time as it became clear that a trading centre was needed in the area.

Most of the buildings that line the waterfront today date back to the 18th century, with a few even older. The narrow streets of the old town follow the natural curve of the shore, reflecting its organic growth over time. The buildings, constructed from locally sourced sandstone, tell the story of Shetland’s maritime heritage, with shops and warehouses that were once built right on the water’s edge. Modern harbour works now extend into the sea, but the charm of the original town remains intact.

Above the old town, Victorian architects laid out a new area of the town in the late 1800s. Known as the "new town," this area boasts spacious villas, public parks, and is dominated by Lerwick Town Hall, an enduring symbol of civic pride. Today, Lerwick offers visitors a blend of historic charm and modern conveniences, making it an excellent place to explore Shetland’s past and present.

Fascinated by the history of the Shetland Islands? Learn more about the region’s rich heritage in our blog here.

Understanding the Weather in Lerwick, Shetland Islands: What to Expect

The weather in Lerwick, much like the rest of the Shetland Islands, is famously unpredictable, with frequent rain showers, strong winds, and conditions that can change rapidly throughout the day. 

Summers are typically cool, with temperatures ranging from 10 to 15°C, making it a refreshing escape, but not warm by most standards. In winter, temperatures can dip below freezing, especially during the colder months.

Due to Shetland’s maritime climate, the weather is influenced by the surrounding seas, which means conditions can shift unexpectedly. For visitors, this means it’s essential to be prepared for anything, no matter the season. Packing layers is key, as it allows you to adjust to changing temperatures. Waterproof clothing and sturdy footwear are also a must to stay comfortable while exploring the outdoors.

If you’re planning your trip to Lerwick and surrounding areas and want to know exactly what to expect, check out our guide to Shetland’s weather for more details.

Exploring Lerwick & Shetland Islands: Things To Do

While Lerwick may be small, it offers an array of activities and attractions for visitors. Whether you're interested in history, culture, or nature, there’s plenty to keep you busy.

Explore Lerwick Harbour & Surrounding Waters

The historic waterfront is the heart of Lerwick and a wonderful place to begin your exploration. With its 18th-century buildings, bustling quayside, and scenic views of the harbour, it's easy to see why this area remains so iconic and why so many enjoy a peaceful walk along the docks.

If you prefer an adventurous day out, take a boat tour and travel around nearby islands for the chance to witness Shetland's wildlife, including seals and seabirds. Departing from Victoria Pier in Lerwick, Shetland Seabird Tours allows you to explore Shetland's rich natural environment, close seabirds and seal encounters, scenic views & striking local geology of Noss National Nature Reserve and Bressay.

Dive into Shetland History

To understand more about Lerwick and the wider Shetland Islands, the Shetland Museum and Archives is a must-visit. The museum tells the story of Shetland’s history, from its Viking roots to its maritime heritage, through a fascinating array of exhibits. It’s located right on the waterfront, so it’s easy to combine with a stroll around the harbour.

Situated on a hill above the town, Fort Charlotte was built in the 17th century to protect Lerwick from possible attacks during Anglo-Dutch Wards, including from pirate raids. Today, it serves as a historical landmark, offering excellent views of the harbour and the surrounding area. The fort is a perfect spot for those interested in Shetland’s military history and looking to enjoy a panoramic vista of the town.

For a step further back in time, visit the Clickimin Broch, a well-preserved Iron Age structure located just outside of Lerwick. This ancient fortification is one of Shetland’s oldest landmarks and offers a fascinating glimpse into the region’s prehistoric past. It’s also a great spot for a leisurely walk, with lovely views of the surrounding landscape.

Take a walk through Lerwick’s narrow, winding streets and enjoy the town’s unique blend of old and new. The original village grew around the shore, but the "new town," with its Victorian villas and public parks, is a lovely contrast. The highlight of the new town is the Lerwick Town Hall, a monument to the civic pride of the 1880s, and a testament to the growth of the town in the 19th century.

Exploring outside of Lerwick or looking for more inspiration? Check out our blog exploring popular things to do in Shetland.

Taste the Best of Lerwick’s Local Cuisine

Thanks to Shetland’s coastal location, the seafood here is some of the freshest and most abundant you’ll find anywhere. Lerwick is the ideal place to sample Shetland’s finest seafood, from succulent fish to shellfish and other local delicacies. 

Whether you're looking for a hearty seafood platter or a light snack, prefer fine dining or a casual bite, Lerwick offers a variety of cafés and restaurants to suit all tastes. Local favourites like Shetland mussels, fresh haddock, and scallops are often on the menu, reflecting the town’s strong maritime heritage.

For recommendations on where to eat in Lerwick and across Shetland, explore our blog on some of the best places to eat in Shetland.

Where to Stay in Lerwick

When visiting Lerwick, there are several accommodation options to suit a range of preferences and budgets. Hotels in Lerwick, Scotland as a popular choice, with the The Lerwick Hotel, Shetland Islands being well-known for its comfortable rooms, seaviews, and a central location.

For a more personal stay, there are numerous bed and breakfasts and guesthouses around town, like the popular Varis House Bed & Breakfast, which has multiple room options to choose from to suit you best. 

Whether you’re looking for a short stay or a longer retreat, you’ll find plenty of accommodation options to make your visit comfortable.To explore more options, including accommodation in Lerwick Scotland, be sure to check out our blog on popular places to stay in Shetland.

Getting to & Around Lerwick

If what you’ve learned about Lerwick inspires you to visit, getting to this charming town is simple. You can reach Lerwick by air, with flights available to Shetland from mainland Scotland. Once you arrive, getting around Lerwick is easy, as the town is compact and walkable. Most of the main attractions, shops, and restaurants are within a short stroll of each other, so you can explore at your own pace.

For more details on how to navigate Shetland beyond Lerwick, including a variety of transport options, take a look at our guide to getting around Shetland.

If you’re looking to venture further, Airtask offers convenient inter-island flights from Tingwall Airport in Lerwick to Fair Isle and Foula, two of Shetland’s most unique and remote islands. 

Whether you're craving adventure, a nature enthusiast, or searching for breathtaking views, these flights are the perfect way to experience the quieter side of Shetland. You can book your flight directly here, or call 01595 840246 or email lwk.ops@airtask.com to secure your place on the only scenic flights available in Shetland.

Is Lerwick Worth a Visit? 

Lerwick may be a small town, but it’s a place brimming with history, culture, and character. From its origins as a humble fishing village to its rise as a bustling harbour town, Lerwick, Shetland has a fascinating past that continues to shape its present. 

Whether you're drawn to its maritime history, stunning landscapes, or vibrant local culture, Lerwick has something to offer every visitor.